In Tutorials

A Super Easy Way to Trace and Sew Darts

I previously shared some tips on my method for darts (here and here), but I wanted to repost it so it’s easier to refer back to! Darts are really essential for a great fitting garment, but the traditional way of tracing and sewing them can be really intimidating. For YEARS I was limiting myself to dart-free dresses because I was scared of them. Silly right?!

Fret not, fellow sewists! I have an easy alternative for you that’s more accurate and practically pin-free. It’s not too good to be true, I promise 😉

Step One:
I prefer to trace my patterns, but you can cut into your printed ones as well. Simply cut one slit up the dart and then fold across the other line to open it up. You don’t want to cut out the entire dart because you still need to be able to trace that outward V shape onto your fabric. Make sure your cut and folded lines are as accurate as you can make them. (The method also works for diamond shaped darts! You can cut out those entirely.)

Step Two:
Next you’ll want to use a sharpened chalk pencil, washable pen, or fabric marking pen of some kind. A sharp tip is key to get a nice straight dark line.  You can use a ruler to help you do this, but make sure your traced line doesn’t stray out from your dart opening. Be sure your pattern is still lined up correctly with your cut fabric, and that you’re tracing on the WRONG side of your fabric.

When you take your pattern away, you should have something like this:

Step Three:
With right sides together, fold your fabric so the two lines you just drew are lined up. This will be a little tricky since you won’t be able to see the line on the bottom side. Just concentrate on lining up the lines at the start of the dart for right now. Pinch the point where you think they’re matched, then gently bend the fabric down to see if you’ve got it. Make small adjustments, and keep bending the fabric down to check. When you have your two lines matched, use your finger nails to press a crease in the dart fold to help you hold that place.

**editor’s note: you can also draw a little line on the right side of your fabric in the seam allowance to mark where the dart starts. That takes the guess work out of trying to match up the two lines blindly!**
Drop your needle down at the start of the dart to hold those two lines together while you adjust the bottom.

Step Four:
To adjust the bottom of the dart so the lines continue to match all the way down, rearrange the fold until the apex of the dart falls directly on it. You shouldn’t be able to see the top or bottom line roll over the fold of the dart.
Once you have that point adjusted correctly, you can use a pin to make sure you don’t lose it! It’s really important to keep the point aligned as you start sewing down the dart. It shouldn’t move with the pin, but it’s still good to check as you sew. Now both your marked dart lines should be all matched up and ready to sew!

Step Five:
Remember to back stitch at the start of the dart, then follow your traced line as best you can down to the end. DO NOT back stitch at the end! Instead just keep sewing until your line and fabric ends, then just pull out some extra thread so you can hand tie the end of your dart.
Take your two ends of thread and tie 3-4 knots at the end of your dart. (Be careful not to take out the last stitch as you separate the threads to tie them.)

Step Six:
Inspect your work! The thread on the top side of your dart should be pretty much perfectly aligned with your traced line, but flip your fabric over and see how close the back lines up. As you can see above, my stitch line is just a tad bit off the traced line, but it’s close enough to be acceptable. If your thread is obviously not lined up with your traced line, you might want to rip it out and try again, this time take a little more care with trying to match up your traced lines before you start sewing.
 

Step Seven:
Press your darts nice and flat. It helps to gently tug one side of the fabric as you press your iron into the dart in the same direction. Flip your fabric over to the right side and press the darts again. Make sure there is no folding or bunching over the seam of your dart from the front. Use the narrow end of your ironing board to help you with pressing the points.
The bottom of your darts should line up directly with the bottom of your fabric to form a continuous line. (The bottom darts look warped in my photo since I’ve stretched the fabric out flat, but the bust darts look correct.)

Well there ya have it! Darts made easy!

  • L Malcolm

    This is a great idea. I still use the old-fashioned method of doing tailor’s tacks which my mother taught me. She was a professional seamstress back in the 1940s. Think I will try your method. Thanks.

  • debbie

    You are so clever! I have spent years, literally, agonizing over darts. Sometimes they were beautiful and other times, well, I just had to walk away. For some unknown reason I seem to have these littles epiphanies about things like darts, and from then on everything is hunker dory, as my Mom likes to say. Good job!

  • Alejandra Congote

    Hello! I’m very grateful about the information on this post. I’m starting to learn how to sew and this tip certainly helps me to save time and be more accurate in my projects. Thank you so much for sharing! 🙂

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  • Michelle

    Oh my gosh, I can’t believe I haven’t thought of this. Been trying to figure out an easier way to trace darts, and this is IT! Thank you!

  • Becky

    I recently purchased simplicity pattern 1609 and needed to study up on darts. Your instructions popped in a google search and I couldn’t have gotten any luckier. Thank you for makign something intimidating look so easy. I can’t wait to give it a go.

    • I’m happy you found your way here, and I hope this post leads you to successful dart sewing! Please let me know if you need more help 🙂

    • How funny! I just bought Simplicity 1609 and found this site for the same reason. Hope your dress turned out perfectly! I’m a newbie and darts are a bit daunting still. This tutorial is very helpful!

      • Wendy

        I just purchased 1609 this week and was struggling with the darts! This is an excellent tip.

  • Becca

    Great tip! I will have to try this 🙂 Thank you!

  • Wow I never thought to do it that way before! Seems so obvious now. This will save me so much time, instead of doing the dots, then connecting them after, making sure my lines are straight, etc. etc. thanks!

  • Neeno – Sew Me Love

    Hey Rochelle,

    Just wanted to let you know I used this technique last week and it was great!!! Not more tailers tacks woo hoo!!!!

  • poppykettle

    This is totally one of those ‘now why didn’t I think of that’ moments. Thankyou!!

  • Sarah

    Great tutorial! I love this!

  • prttynpnk

    Thats a total revelation!

  • SabineC

    The tracing idea is so simple and yet so smart! Thank you!

  • Miss Prickly

    I don’t know why this makes me so happy to learn this, but it does!

  • Ybat

    This is a great tutorial. I will definetly be doing it this way from now on. My question is how do you transfer the dart to the other half of the front. Do you just flip the fabric and put the pattern piece on top and trace again. Thanks

    • Yes, you would just flip your pattern piece and trace the dart the same way on the other half of your fabric 🙂

  • Ah, it looks so obvious now it’s pointed out to me! Such a useful post – thank you!

  • This is a well-photographed tutorial which I really appreciate. I have to remember to give this method a go! 🙂

  • sewdebeaux

    So obvious and easy, why didn’t we all know about this already? One thing I do to help line up the dart lines on each side is to put pins through the top line and make sure they go through the line on the other side. 2 or 3 pins in the dart will ensure that both sides are perfectly lined up. Then I finger press the crease in to hold it all into place before sewing.

    Thanks for the tip!

    • I came to this method because I was lazy and thought there HAD to be a faster way haha! That’s a great idea to use pins to check how the lines match up. I use a similar technique when I match up pocket dots, but I didn’t think to do that with the darts too! Thank YOU for the tip 😉

  • MadeByMeg

    brilliant!

  • Neeno – Sew Me Love

    Thanks for this!! I sew a lot of patterns with darts and I have a love/hate relationship with them, mostly caused by them not aligning correctly. I am definitely giving this method a go when I sew my “Dorothy” costume for Halloween 🙂 xx

    • I’m happy to have helped! Dorothy is such a classic costume. I’m sure it will turn out great 🙂

  • Miss Crayola Creepy

    This is an amazing tutorial! Thank you for posting it! Next time I am going to use your technique for tracing!

    • No problem!! Let me know how it works for you 🙂