Oh boy. This dress has a ton of potential but I’m definitely going to have to work for it! The over all impression I’m getting is: the dress is too big, and the darts are all wrong.
When I pull the dress tight to accentuate the problem areas it’s obvious with the diagonal wrinkle that the bodice is too big, so it’s strange that I would get a “too tight” wrinkle right between the bust darts. According to chapter 4 in the Colette Sewing Handbook, a horizontal wrinkle means you need to add width. So in my case I need to move the bodice darts farther apart, and possibly make the bust darts shorter in length, but also make the bodice smaller.
I could easily take in the side seams by an inch, and I’ll definitely have to add length to the bodice. I never thought I had an abnormally long torso, but it’s becoming a trend with me and Colette Patterns that the waist seam falls much higher on me than where my natural waist actually is. This was the case with my Macaron dress too. I noticed immediately when I put my hands on my waist that the seam doesn’t reach my hand, and sure enough when I tighten a measuring tape around the smallest part of my middle, the seam is at least an inch too high.
Again with that wonky horizontal bust wrinkle! But the subtle diagonal wrinkles towards the waist again confirm the bodice is too big. I’ve never encountered an issue like this before, and honestly I’m really not looking forward to moving darts around. But, if I want to get better at tailoring, this is the way I’ll learn. I also need to make the darts at the back neckline MUCH deeper. Look at that gap at the neck!
I also want to scoop out the neckline a bit so it’s not so high. I do love a good boat neck, but showing a little clavicle never hurt anyone, right? I’m wondering how easy it will be to use bias tape to bind the neckline in this shape though. (I’m not a fan of facings.) I’m skipping the sleeves since I always wear cardigans and I don’t like bunchy sleeves all waded up under my sweaters.
I’m also experimenting with different skirt styles since I want to wear mine with a petticoat! I’m hooked on the skirt froof! I’ve added a lot of width to the original skirt piece to accommodate the fullness and may even add more. It sure looks cute with the petticoat! I’m not sure if I’ll go with pleats or gathers on my final dress. I used a little bit of both on this muslin.
Let’s see if I’m still smiling after all is said and done haha! I’m definitely going to make another muslin before cutting into my prized Ghastlies fabric.
So, here’s my check list for muslin number two:
1. Add 2 inches to bodice length
2. Take in and taper the side seams by a half inch on each side
3. Move bottom bodice darts farther apart
4. Make darts at back neck line deeper
5. Add more width to skirt and two inches in length
6. Cut out a bit more neckline for a deeper boat neck in front
Oh, is that all?? lol
At least this dress goes together super quickly! How is your muslin coming a long?