To help you complete your Sew For Victory look, I’ve put together a bunch of links to get you started on the right path for authentic 1940′s hair and makeup. The 40′s look was all about enhancing your natural beauty and disguising war time hardships with subtle glamour.
This photo of Lana Turner is a great example of 40′s makeup. Eye makeup was minimal, eyebrows were natural but sculpted, the face had a “clean” appearance, and the shape of the lips were natural but the lip color was some shade of red, pink, or coral. One of the biggest mistakes I see with 40′s makeup (even the most glamorous styles) are overly made up eyes. Eyeliner wasn’t used much, and if it was, it was applied in a very thin line just to enhance the eyelashes on the top lid. Sometimes you’d see a slight extension of the lash line with eyeliner, but never the full cat eye “wing out” that was popular in the 50′s. Eye shadow colors were usually matte and in various shades of warm brown, grey, or navy. Eye makeup was not worn on the bottom! Sometimes women would use mascara on the bottom lashes, but that was as heavy as makeup got on the bottom lid. If you’d like to see how NOT to do 1940′s makeup, take a look at Lesley-Anne Down’s character in the WWII movie Hanover Street. So, so wrong!
One of my favorite resources for 1940′s makeup is this makeup guide by Glamour Daze.
This PDF download is a fully restored beauty book from the 1940′s so it’s one of the most authentic guides out there. It covers a wide variety of topics from proper hair and makeup looks that suite your face shape to exercise routines. I highly recommend it!
Another great book that I really love is Retro Makeup by Lauren Rennells.
This book covers makeup techniques from the 1920′s through the 60′s, but it has a great section on the 40′s and how to achieve different looks from the era. I love that Lauren included wartime work looks, military looks, and everyday makeup in addition to the more glamorous makeup techniques that we see more often. It’s really neat to see how much makeup application has changed throughout the decades! This is definitely my favorite non-downloadable makeup book.
This video by Super Kawaii Mama is one of the most authentic tutorials I’ve found on YouTube for 40′s day time makeup.
Since the 40′s is all about enhancing your natural beauty, you can skip any makeup that would make you look overly done up. For example: my face is naturally flush so any kind of color on my cheeks looks like too much. I also skip all face makeup that isn’t a simple finishing powder because it irritates my dry skin and definitely does not enhance my natural beauty (ha!). If you’ve been blessed with long full eyelashes, try a clear gel mascara instead of traditional ones, and don’t redraw your lip line if you don’t need to! My eye lids are quite small, so even with my daytime makeup I still do a bit of subtle contouring with natural eye shadow colors to give them a little extra brightness. Are you starting to see the trend here? Enhance natural beauty!
As far as hairstyles go, I really can’t recommend this book enough! 1940s Hairstyles by Daniela Turudich is a gold mine for those on a quest to create authentic 40′s hair. This book covers styling tips and techniques, as well as different hair cuts of the era including short cuts, wartime cuts, the most popular hair cut of the 40s, and screen siren styles. I was surprised when I read about the Shingle Cut which started at 4-6 inches long on the top for styling, and tapered to only 1 inch long at the back!
So, girls with short hair, this book will answer a lot of your questions!
Check out this video about the “Vingle” factory haircut by British Pathe.
The overall length of the Vingle is actually quite short, but when it’s styled, it looks the same as other longer styles of the period.
No matter what length of hair you had, the styling was pretty much the same. Using different curling methods to create fancy wave patterns was the standard look of the 40s. I learned pin curling and finger waving in cosmetology school (yes, once upon a time I was a licensed cosmetologist!) but if you’re unfamiliar with the techniques I recommend Vintage Hairstyling by Lauren Rennells.
This book includes more than just 40′s hairstyles, but has awesome step by step instructions for how to do all kinds of curls. You’ll learn about different types of rollers, tools, and setting patterns, and how curl base and direction affects them. Definitely a must read for those interested in vintage hair.
The most important thing to remember about 40′s hair is your comb out is everything, and comb outs take time! When you start to brush out your hair and you end up with a massive frizz pile, do not panic. Just keep brushing!
For some authentic 1940′s makeup check out the awesome products available at The Vermont Country Store! Shown above: Tangee brand blush and lipstick, Max Factor pan stick foundation, and the original “cake” mascara.
Later this week I’ll be sharing a review of two lipsticks from the Vermont Country Store, in order to demonstrate two different 1940′s makeup looks.
Oh, and yes they did have wigs in the 40′s!
Hopefully these links will help you get started with your 1940′s hair and makeup. I can’t wait to see everyone’s completed looks at the end of the sew along! I have a bunch of great prizes starting to stack up here so make sure you’re active in the Sew For Victory Flickr group so I know who’s eligible to win them
Have a great week!