In Sewing

Vogue V9100 Deer Dress

Vogue9100_deerdress

I’ve made quite a few loose fitting dresses already this Spring, so now that the warm weather has finally arrived I’ve been feeling a need to sew something on the opposite end of the sack-dress spectrum. Something like a vintage Fit and Flare dress. Something exactly like the new Vogue V9100 dress pattern! Now, I have plenty of great things to say about this pattern, and one semi giant “uhhhhhh…. wait, what now?!” thing to say about it. I’ll explain that bit in a minute but right now please allow me to celebrate the fit!

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I am sooooo happy with the fit! Like all good things, I had to work for it, but not as hard as I was anticipating. Due to my lovely Lady Turtle shape, I often have a hard time fitting my upper back, shoulders, and under arms. But! The beauty of this pattern is there is no upper back to mess with, haha! I had no gaping with the scoop back at all. In fact, aside from a sway back adjustment I still need to work out, I didn’t have to adjust anything at the back at all.

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The shoulders were a bit of a different story since mine slope forward. When I tried on my first muslin the bodice was riding up in the front because my rounded upper back was pulling things off balance. The simple fix for that was to remove a half inch from the front shoulder seam, and add one inch to the back shoulder seam. That gave my slope-y shoulders/rounded upper back the room needed so the dress would sit correctly on my frame (I learned how to make that easy shoulder adjustment in Kathleen Cheetham’s Craftsy class).

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The bust would have been perfect the first time except I picked the wrong size to start with. I originally bought this pattern because it has separate pattern pieces for A,B,C, and D cup sizes. I went with my bra size (for the sake of pattern science, it’s a 30D/DD) but the muslin I made with the D pattern pieces was waaayy too big. I ended up going down to the B (still a size 6) and it was pretty perfect. Now, I *think* the reason I had such a sizing issue with the bust at first is because sewing patterns are usually drafted off the national average, which I believe is a 34B, which happens to be about the same proportions as someone who’s a 30D, which is why the B was a better fit for my size. That makes sense, right? I think so… Well if that is true, and I didn’t just make all that up, then the good news for me is I should never have to do a FBA on anything! Woo hoo!

Anyways! Moving right along…

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So even though I made four bodice muslins before I figured all this out, the only changes I really had to make were the shoulder adjustment and the sway back adjustment (which isn’t perfected yet). The armholes, which I almost ALWAYS have to mess with, were perfect right off the bat! I’m also not 100% sold on the length of the bodice as it is but that’s an adjustment for another time.

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The deep scoop back isn’t a style I can wear all the time because with my skin disorder I’m usually covered in scratches from head to toe, but on a decent day it’s really flattering! The cut is just deep enough that you can still wear a bra and it won’t show. Speaking of low cut, I added a hook and eye closure to the top but it’s impossible for me to fasten by myself, haha! I’d say I have an above average reach as far as the amount of surface area of my back I can touch (if the fading scratches are anything to go by lol), but I still can’t close that hook and eye. Oh well.

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Outfit Details
Hair Scarf: vintage/thrift store
Glasses: El Ria c/o Victory Optical
(use code LUCKY20 to get 20% off frames!)
Dress Pattern: Vogue V9100
Dress Fabric: Antler Damask by Joel Dewberry
Belt: Target
Shoes: Old Navy

My only complaint with the pattern is the skirt, and it has me so puzzled I actually emailed Vogue about it (which is something I’ve never done before). I cut both pattern pieces at the View A skirt length but when I pinned the front and back pockets together there was 1″ extra length at the top of the Skirt Front, and 3.25″ extra length at the bottom of the Skirt Front!

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When you look at the photo above you can see how the pocket circles and double notches don’t match up. The only way for me to save the skirt was to align the pockets at the single notches only, then trim the extra length off the top and bottom of the Skirt Front.

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Again, when you look at the Skirt Front compared to the Skirt Back, it’s not even close to the same size. I cut both pieces on the Size 6 line, at the View A length, and retraced my steps several times trying to find a point where I may have made the mistake, but I can’t find it. I never like to jump to conclusions and assume a drafting mistake but when you look at the cutting diagrams in the instructions, the skirt pieces appear to be nearly identical in size except the Front is cut on the fold. I know the Big 4 companies are known to add a lot of wearing ease, and I like to gripe about that, but I’ve never had an issue like this before. It’s bizarre! Has anyone else sewn this pattern and had the same problem?

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All in all I’m super happy with this dress! I’ll just retrace the skirt pieces so everything lines up correctly and then next time the sewing process should be smooth sailing. I also opted not to line this version, because lining material isn’t something I keep on hand, but next time I think I will buy some voile lining and give it a go. The bias tape works well to finish the seams but at the end of the day the shoulders stretched out a bit. I did use some Hug Snug seam binding as a built-in waist stay and I think I’ll continue to do with future versions as well.

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Lucille has been really camera shy lately but I did make her take one silly picture with me this time. She’s thrilled as you can tell πŸ˜‰

Making this dress and having it turn out so well has made me way more confident in my pattern fitting abilities. I’m feeling ready to return to the more complicated dress project I was working on last month and finally see it done.

Wish me luck!

xo
Rochelle

  • Jeanette

    I am so glad I found your site. The front and back skirt patterns had me really confused as they are so different in size that I thought I had missed something. It is obviously a scaling problem which is not good as I am a novice dress maker. Your dress looks great.

  • Kitty B

    Hi. I just made this dress and I’m happy with the fit. Made one muslin to make sure the princess seams and shape worked and then sewed the dress. But on mine, the front scoop seems to have come out much scoopier that yours! Perhaps I should have paid more attention to the muslin’s scoop. It’s a lower cut than I would have wanted but still looks ok; I just don’t think I’ll be wearing it to work, even with a sweater.

    I’m curious, did you adjust your bodice so that the scoop would not be quite as deep in front? Yours looks like the cut I had expected.

  • Cathy

    Hi, I am just cutting out and I see that the front skirt pattern IS just too small to match up with the notches and dots around the pocket. I know it’s the front because the back matches the pocket just fine. I’m going to wing it and make the front the right size to match.

    • Cathy

      And, btw, you look sensational in this dress!

  • This looks lovely, it fits you beautifully! The guts of your pieces always look so pretty too. Scoop backs are awesome for weird upper backs, as I’ve also discovered. I’m so glad my first dress was a By Hand London Elisalex for that reason. Quick question about your shoulder adjustment though, did you mean to add more to the back than the front? I always thought with forward shoulder adjustments you were meant to add the same amount you removed to keep the armhole shape/circumference the same. I’m just wondering how that would affect adding sleeves to a pattern. (Fitting my shoulders and upper back drives me nuts too. Totally relate to bodices riding up at the front and shoulder seams pulling back. Grrr)

    • Thanks, Jo! Yes, I meant to add more to the back shoulder than the front. I have forward sloping shoulders, but also a rounded upper back so those are the proportions I have to add/take away in order to keep the balance. Normally you are supposed to make equal adjustments, but for me it wasn’t enough with this pattern. When I hang this dress up on a hanger the shoulder seam looks all sorts of wrong, but as soon as I put it on, everything is where it should be, so that’s what I’ve been going with πŸ™‚ …this is why it takes me like four bodice muslins to work out lol.

      It’s not super hard to make the same adjustments to a sleeve, but it’s more than I could explain in a comment. I bought another Craftsy class called “Fast Track Fitting: in the details” and Joi briefly explains how to do it. I’m sure a Google search would lead you to some good answers too though πŸ˜‰

      • Ah, cool. Thanks for getting back to me! I’ve made forward shoulder adjustments to sleeves once before and found it ok, so yeah I imagine it shouldn’t be too difficult to adjust for a little extra space in the back. I’m just never very sure whether I have forward shoulders or just really massive shoulder blades that need more space! Haha. Craftsy fitting classes sound like a great idea. Might look into that πŸ™‚

  • Georgia

    Great job on the dress! I found you via google as well. I have this in my stash and was about to make a muslin of the bodice to test fit. How much ease is there in the waist? I was going to cut a 12, based on my upper bust measurement (I’m a C-cup) per the Vogue instructions on their site, but a 12 is about 2″ too small for my waist according to their sizing on the envelope.

    • Thanks, Georgia! Honestly I can’t remember off the top of my head about the ease… I think it’s about 3 inches above the size chart measurements? I’d have to go back and open up the pattern pieces. I know I picked the Size 6 because the finished measurements were closer to what I wanted the ease to be (I’m closer to a 10 based on the size chart). If the finished measurements aren’t printed on the bodice tissue then I’m sure I roughly measured the pattern pieces and decided to just go for it since I was making a muslin anyways. I bet you’d be fine starting with the 12. Good luck! I hope you love the dress as much as I do πŸ™‚

  • Annie White

    I found your blog by googling “V9001 is wrong”. The skirt is puzzling, as you mentioned. It’s likely that it is simply a misprint. You’ll notice that the image on front of the pattern package is a drawing not a photograph… Vogue likely never mocked up the pattern to see if it was correct. Thinking back over my history of frustration with sewing, I wonder how often this has happened in the past. As a self taught sewer, slogging my way through, slowly demystifying the craft, technique by technique, when I run into this sort of issue I totally assume that the problem is with me- my intelligence, or sewing ability. In this case, I’m pretty sure it’s on Vogue- they just screwed up. The pattern is still useable with some slight drafting alterations to the skirt.

    • I agree it’s probably a misprint. Apparently Vogue knows about the issue now and a fix is in the works. It wasn’t too hard for me to work around, but I do feel some anxiety for less experienced sewers who are making the same version because the pattern is labeled “Very Easy” Vogue. Eeek!

  • This looks really pretty on you and I love the colour combo!! So happy to see Lucille too!

    • Thanks! Yes Lucille can’t stay away from her adoring fans for too long πŸ˜‰

  • Very pretty dress, I really like the fabric you picked for it! And it fits you like a glove!

  • Splendidly pretty dress! I second the crowd and have to say, the fit here is absolutely fantastic! I took note instantly of how well it fit in the back, so wasn’t surprised when you mentioned that point.

    Big hugs & happy weekend wishes to you and darling Lucille,
    β™₯ Jessica

  • This is really, really, really pretty! I love it so much! I hope you make this style again because it really suits you!

    • Thanks, Pretty Lady! I’m already scheming up a second version and it may or may not involve lime green and unicorns. …Maybe πŸ˜‰ πŸ˜‰

  • I agree with you and others – the fit looks completely spot on, and I love the hug snug. Also, like others have said – pattern bust sizing is pretty different to cup sizing. I’m a 36DD and I’d use a drafted B (or maybe C) cup.

    Given that the hook and eye is placed at the widest part of the dress, why not do it up BEFORE you put the dress on? Looks like you’d still be able to get it on, and then zip it up, without worrying about having to contort yourself to do it up (I’m bad with hook and eyes on the best of days).

    • Aww thanks so much!! That’s a really excellent idea about the hook and eye situation …I wonder if that will work?! Hmm…

      • I don’t see why not! You have plenty of room to get it over your head with it done up, and it’s at the widest part so it shouldn’t be an issue.

        • Hey you’re right, it totally works!! Good call πŸ™‚

  • This looks adorable on you and I love your fabric choice. You created the perfect little summer dress! I too was wondering if Vogue responded and would be curious to what they have to say if they do.

    • Thanks, Ally! No word back yet, but we’ll see πŸ™‚

  • Congrats on finding your perfect fit, it was the first thing I noticed was how well that bodice sits… I wouldn’t mind a bodice like it now I’ve been staring at you for 5 minutes! The back is super cute.

    • Thanks so much! I think this style would look absolutely beautiful on you! πŸ™‚

  • The McCall Pattern Company

    We love this on you! Curious: Did you get a response from us when you reported this possible error?

    • Thank you! πŸ™‚ No I haven’t gotten a response but in fairness I only submitted my question two days ago (via the contact form on the Vogue page).

      • The McCall Pattern Company

        I think I heard it being discussed in an error report meeting today, but I can’t swear to it. Feel free to send an email to consumerservices@voguepatterns.com. β€”Meg C.

  • This dress is amazing (not unlike everything you do) and so inspiring. I love the scooped back and the big skirt. What about a tiny button instead of the eye hook?

    • Thank you! Yes I think I’ll need to make another version ASAP. …and hopefully avoid a second back closure all together πŸ˜‰

  • LUCILLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Your hard work on fitting paid off! The dress looks pretty perfect to me, especially the guts. You worked hard on this and should be really really proud of yourself. Plus, you rocked it even with a pattern misprint, which is impressive. I would have assumed it was my fault and thrown in the towel haha

    I know I keep saying it, but I need to take that Craftsy class you took. I think it would help this granny (me) with my shoulder issue :/

    • I had to include a Lucille photo since you’re her biggest fan πŸ˜‰ πŸ˜‰ And I’m definitely proud of this dress. You KNOW how much we struggle with muslins so this feels like a huge win!

  • Loran Watkins

    The pattern is off, they’ve probably printed the wrong size markings on the larger piece. This used to be ‘normal’ for patterns which is why many of my contemporaries hated to sew. I remember using a tank top pattern in sewing class in the eighth grade that had the wrong size pieces in the envelope. Someone was cutting a 6 but the back was really a size 16. The teacher wasn’t smart enough to be able to tell her the issues weren’t with anything SHE had done but what she may or may not have done. In other words the teacher told the student that the student somehow screwed up, not the pattern company. I took one look at it and quietly re-cut her back for her so she’d have a finished project and pass the class.
    Your dress is delightful! The reason, so my grandmother told me, for the hook-n-eye at the top of the zipper was so it would take the stress off the zipper staying closed. Way back when zippers were kind of a new thing they didn’t always stay up so the hook-n-eye was your insurance policy that the zipper wouldn’t pull and fall down. That, and it kept the very top of the dress closed and flat and pretty πŸ™‚ Clearly I don’t worry much about either one of those issues now since I rarely do them and have no mishaps. Leave ’em off if they stop you from making more lovelies!!

    • Yep, it’s obvious to me now that the pattern is “off” lol. It was hard for me to believe that Vogue could make a mistake (though I’m sure that happens more than I’ve realized since they employ humans lol) which is why I kept thinking, “Wait… what did I cut wrong?!” That’s sad your teacher didn’t have the eyes to realize something was amiss. Good thing you were there to save the day! I wish we lived closer so you could save my sewing days …and so I could be best friends with all your lovely furry children πŸ˜‰ πŸ˜‰

  • anitaboeira

    I had the exact same problem! Ended up not noticing till I was sewing the skirt, and had to chop so much length to get everything right the dress ended up way too short on me. I’m thinking about doing it again and just using a different skirt pattern with this bodice. The bodice is great, but the skirt just made no sense.

    • Oh no!! Yeah I had already cut everything out and was trying to sew the pockets before I even had a clue there was a mistake! Honestly I can’t believe my dress is still wearable after cutting off 4 inches but somehow it worked. Using a different skirt pattern all together would be a really simple fix. I might try to do that. At least the bodice was worth the trouble πŸ™‚

  • This dress looks beautiful on you! I love the fabric and the fit is perfect!

  • sallieforrer

    This is gorgeous on you! You wear the fit and flare style so well – and the fit really is perfect with this bodice! Well done! Totally weird about the skirt. Glad it didn’t throw off your garment!

    • Thanks, Lady! Coming from you (i.e. someone who might as well add Professional Jeans Fitter to their resumΓ©) that’s a really excellent compliment πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

  • This looks really really great! I love the little pop of color the hug snug gives the inside too. Well done.
    And that’s really weird about the skirt. I’ve never heard of that before lol

    • Thanks, Tasha! I’m a fan of pops of color, especially if they’re functional. This was my first major issue with a printed pattern not coming together correctly, but everyone who works at Vogue is human so mistakes can happen I guess πŸ™‚

  • Super cute dress! Isn’t it great to not have to do all that fitting for gaping at the back? I recently discovered the scoop back too and that is the only way to go for me as far as I’m concerned. That is really weird about the skirt though. Did Vogue get back to you?

    • Thank you! Yeah why did no one tell me a scoop back would solve so many of my problems?! Haha! Well now I know πŸ˜‰ And no, Vogue hasn’t gotten back to me yet. I’ll be a bit surprised if they do because I submitted my question through their email form on their website, and who knows where those emails actually end up lol.

  • It’s lovely! The fabric is also awesome πŸ™‚

    • Thanks! I can’t resist a big print like this, especially if there’s flora and fauna involved πŸ˜‰

  • sewingsu

    Its a really gorgeous dress and looks great on you! Perfect for summer!

    • Thank you πŸ™‚ Yes I agree, a summer staple!

  • Lara

    That is so pretty! What great colours on you and I agree that the back is a super flattering shape!

    • Thanks so much, Lara! The print also comes in green (black and white, too!) and I’m tempted to make a similar dress in that colorway as well. You can’t have too many cute deer dresses, right?! πŸ˜‰ πŸ˜‰

  • Sara

    Nicely done! I like the use of the binding on the inside of the dress!

    • Thanks! Yeah the hug snug is great because it doesn’t stretch and it’s nice to have a dress that still fits in the waist after wearing it all day πŸ™‚

  • Megan Connolly

    Wow! This dress looks great on you. It really fits great. I’m still struggling to fit my garments, so I am really impressed.

    • Thanks, Megan! Getting serious about fit is something I just started working on this year so I still have a lot to learn, but it’s definitely doable! Just keep reading as much as you can and then it’s pretty much up to trial and error if you’re going at it alone. Hang in there! πŸ™‚

  • I love this! The scoop back is really flattering, the fit is perfect, and the print is great. It’s good to know that the D cup pattern pieces were too big, because I also wear either a D or an E with a very small band, but I’ve always wondered how the patterns with specific cup sizes would fit

    • Thank you! Yeah the multi-cup sized sewing patterns are new to me so I wasn’t really sure on where to start or how to go about that, but I think it’s safe to say now that I fit the standard proportions. Hopefully you’ll have a similar experience because it makes fitting so much easier! πŸ™‚

  • jannapyj

    I thought your dress was cute on my little phone screen, but seeing it now on my big computer screen…It is darling!!!!!! Your sewing is superb!

    JJ
    http://www.dressupnotdown.blogspot.com

  • Shannon Phillips

    Beautiful dress! I love the low back. Man 4 bodice muslins…you are way more of a trooper than I. Great fabric too!

    • Thanks! Well I think it always takes me waaayyyyy more muslins than normal because I’m trying to fit myself, all by myself, and I make one flat pattern change at a time. This time around it was definitely worth it πŸ˜‰

  • Lovely dress! The fit is wonderful and I love the low back! Looks great!

  • It’s a really cute dress! The back is really flattering in particular. It’s totally made for Lady Turtles! Honestly I find hooks and eyes at the top of a dress pretty much useless. Hard to close and don’t really add anything (and omg, I hate sewing them on). So I just try to be extra careful with the top of my zipper to make it look nice. lol

    • Thanks, Dear! And good point about the hook and eye! Why the hell would I go through all that trouble when I could just try to sew a better zipper haha! I like that solution much better πŸ˜‰

  • HΓ©lΓ¨ne

    Great work! I love your dress: the fit + the print are awesome. And Lucille is lovely. I would adopt her right away.

    • Thanks so much! Lucille is pretty lovely if I do say so myself, and I did adopt her the second I met her …6 years ago now πŸ™‚

  • Great job fitting! Your work really paid off!

  • Brooke

    I love this dress on you! And the fit really IS great! Total win!

    That skirt pattern looks like a scaling and printing issue – even the notches and dots are different sizes. I think it’s safe to say that’s definitely a printing error. Looks like you could use the back pattern piece as both the front and the back though. Just hang the center skirt edge 5/8″ off the fold in your fabric to cut your front. =)

    • Thank you! And I think you’re right, it does look like a mistake that happened during the printing phase. Whatever it is, it’s not right lol. It would definitely be an easy fix to just use one skirt piece for both the front and back. That’s a good idea! Saves me from tracing two pieces πŸ˜‰

  • Super cute! Michelle has an awesome and epic post on how sewing cup sizes don’t align with bra sizes here: worth a read! http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.ca/2015/04/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizing.html

    • Wow, excellent link! Thanks for suggesting it, Gillian πŸ™‚