a girly, but not too girly, vintage floral button-up

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Once again you all blew me away with your amazing comments to my last post on wardrobe epiphanies. I’m slowly trying to respond to everyone, but just know that I read each and every comment and appreciate them all the same. Like me, it seems a lot of you vintage lovin’ gals have trouble finding clothes that fit in with your lifestyle and your love for bygone eras. Of course, you can still love vintage and not wear those types of clothes, but I feel good about myself when I do and it makes me proud of how I look. I feel like a big piece of me is missing if I wear clothes out of the house that don’t look at least a little vintage (kinda like when I forget my glasses. I feel all wrong).

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I also feel like a big piece of me is missing when I’m not wearing at least one thing that I’ve made myself. Wearing me-made things just plain makes me feel happy! So I’ve been doing a bit of soul searching lately and taking a good hard look at what I constantly wear, vs what I was constantly sewing but not wearing as much. There was a gigantic gap in the middle with the words BUTTON-UP SHIRT written all over it. Once that part of the equation was identified, the rest just fell into place for this project.

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This is the Archer Button-Up by Jen at Grainline Studio. There’s not much I can say except I love this pattern! It has a ton of pattern pieces compared to the shirts I’ve sewn so far this summer, but it’s seriously my perfect shirt. It has minimal shaping and a classic menswear look but with a lot of options to make a more feminine version if you want to (I want to make the ruffle back version soon!). I had made another version of Archer back in December for a fun sewing challenge, but I got the fit wrong and fudged one of the sleeves so I don’t really wear it. This one is definitely going to get worn!

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To add a vintage twist to my Archer I used a 1930s ditsy floral reproduction mixed with some pink baby gingham. Both are a quilting cotton weight, not technically a shirting, but work very well for this pattern in my opinion. Quilting cottons will always be my favorite fabrics so any time I can sew with them I’m a happy camper! I really love the way this shirt turned out because it’s the perfect pairing of feminine styling and masculine comfort.

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I realized I had been sewing a lot of quick, instant gratification garments lately (like kimono sleeve pullover blouses and things like that) but I live in button-up shirts at home. Live in them! As I was piecing this shirt together though I remembered why I haven’t tried to sew one since December …so. many. buttons. Haha! THIRTEEN button holes I had to sew, with thirteen buttons. That’s a lot for someone with a less than virtuous attention span. The lesson with that is, though: it was so worth it! Sometimes you need to craft your wardrobe – not whip it up.

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Another clothing/sewing realization I had is I don’t like seasonal wardrobes. It annoys me to try and find a place for my winter stuff during the summer, and my summer stuff in the winter. I’d much rather just have clothes that work for all seasons, plus or minus a few layers. Today it was really overcast and windy so the long sleeves were perfect! On hotter days I’ll just roll up the sleeves and skip having to put sun screen on most of my upper half. That works for me.

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Wil and I took a long lunch break to blow off a little steam since our Lucky Lucille Lou went in for surgery this morning and we’re trying not to stress! She has a small lump near her chest that we discovered recently and decided to have it removed and sent out for testing. Her blood work came back clear so we’re hoping it’s just a fatty tumor and nothing serious. We won’t know for a week or two what the results are and I’m trying not to hold my breath until then. Fun, upbeat music is my favorite (especially for days like today) so it was all Skiffle all day long. Skiffle is a really fun genre of folk/blues/rockabilly/??? if you’re into that kind of stuff. There’s a really interesting history involving the roots of Skiffle that I could easily keep rambling about but I’ll send you to Wikipedia instead ;) ;)

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After a milkshake and some photos in the park we were feeling a lot better. It’s funny how well a milkshake can lift the spirits ;)

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Outfit Details:
Shirt – Archer pattern made by me
Jeans – American Eagle (from nearly 5 years ago)
Jacket – Sport-Tek Ladies Letterman Fleece
Glasses – Honey frames c/o Victory Optical
Knitting Bag – vintage from a flea market
Shoes – Old Navy
Socks – stolen from Wil

photos by William Waldon

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This outfit makes me feel more like “me” than I have in a long time (a sewing room victory!!) and I’m eager to sew much more of it. There are a few different styles of pants I want to try before I can pick a favorite, but I think button-ups are going straight to the top of my pattern list. I also want to try sewing a Newcastle Cardigan by Thread Theory to make a jacket similar to the one I’m wearing today.

It feels good to feel like yourself and be proud of what you’re wearing. Especially when you make it yourself :)

xo
Rochelle

p.s. Lucille is out of surgery now and is recovering well so far but still needs to stay over night for observation (we won’t have her test results back for several days thought). I should have her back first thing tomorrow morning! Thank you all SO MUCH for your kind words on instagram and facebook. You’ve seriously made my day so much better and I’m forever thankful. I know Lucille is too ;)

a haircut, a cat, and a pair of pants.

I finished these pants last week but haven’t had a chance to share them until today. I love all this Spring rain we’ve been getting but Wil and I always seem to miss the dry window of opportunity for outdoor photos. Luckily we caught a break long enough to get a few shots in the yard. My little friend here decided to join us.

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These are my new favorite pants! They’re made from the Marlene pattern by Burda Style and even though the directions are less than helpful, I’m happy to report I made my way through alright after the initial muslin. I can’t say anything bad about Burda because I love their selection of downloadable patterns (all for around five dollars), but I am noticing a serious lack of sewing instruction and there are definitely no diagrams. I’d be lying if I said I was the type of girl who always follows instructions, because I rarely do (it comes back to bite me usually, I might add) but I do like to glance at illustrations as I work through things. Luckily I’ve sewn enough simple pairs of pants to get through the construction without help but I hadn’t done a lined pocket quite like this before so they totally threw me off the first time around! The pockets on my muslin definitely empty out into the pant leg and are completely useless haha!

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Not to worry though, I clearly figured it out. Honestly the construction isn’t that difficult at all, I just tend to confuse myself with the wording when reading directions. …it’s definitely a “problem” I deal with. If there is such a thing as directional ADD, I’m sure I have it. Whoops I’m losing my train of thought here… oh right the pants. Awesomest pants ever!

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I could have done a bit better job on the waistband but aside from that, the Marlene Trousers are everything I’ve ever wanted in a pants pattern. I thought I wanted a pair of trousers with a fly front, but turns out I don’t have man parts that necessitate a zipper in the front, and I’ve always preferred lapped zippers anyways, so there’s no Master Of Sewing telling me I HAVE to learn how to sew pants with flys right now. So I’m not going to. However, the common problem with lapped side zippers and pants is: no side pockets. I don’t mind not having back pockets, but I need some pockets in the front. So once again, these pants are everything I want/need in a pair of pants!

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The legs are also gigantic! Again, a want/need for me. Lately I’m borderline obsessed with the wide-leg pant styles of the 1920s and 30s. They’re just so comfortable! Oh and the fabric I picked for these pants is fantastic. It’s a lighter weight denim by Robert Kaufman that I bought from Hawthorne Threads. I think it’s the perfect thickness for summer! The thread pattern makes the fabric look almost shiny from a distance. It’s pretty neat stuff. Wonderful to sew with!

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Outfit Details:
Pants – Marlene Trousers via Burda Style
Shirt – Antique (another gift from my aunt)
Art Deco Bobby Pins – ModCloth
Shoes – Target
Glasses – c/o Victory Optical
Hair Color – Manic Panic Vampire Red

photos by William Waldon

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To match my 1920s/30s obsession I went and got another hair cut (just in time for Loran’s 1920s sew-along!). I know I prefer my real hair to be short (any photo of me with long hair is actually a wig!) but it’s taken me several cuts to find the perfect short style for me. I think this might be it! It seems to be working really well with my natural wave.

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This here is my friend, Karl Cat. He wanted to see why we were standing around in the side yard, looking like we were free to pet him. He’s really handsome so I obliged his request.

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…he doesn’t like when Wil tries to pet him though haha!

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“Dude. Hands off the brow.”

I think this is the project that officially got me excited for summer sewing! I also bought two shirt patterns from Burda that I can wait to make, and I’m even more excited to pick fabric for them, especially since Cotton + Steel just went live at Quilt Market! Ahh! Must have ALL THE C+S FABRIC!

What are you working on lately?

xo
Rochelle

 

dubarry sewing – best colors for your type

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Today I have some images from a great sewing booklet by DuBarry Patterns, published in 1945. It includes tons of tips and techniques for sewing success as well as a really great color photo chart suggesting which colors suit you best! I’ve included both the full spread, and a much larger scan so you can actually read the text. I thought it would be a fun reference for Sew For Victory! I have not digitally enhanced the colors in order to keep them as true to the original printing as possible.

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I’m actually a little disappointed by the suggested colors for auburn hair and brown eyes haha! They seem a bit dull in comparison to some of the other palettes. Though I am lucky to have the “most perfect type of face” lol.

What does your hair and eye color suggest for you?
If you’re participating in Sew For Victory, did you pick one of the colors from your palette? I did!

xo
Rochelle

p.s. I’d really love to scan this entire booklet and make it available as a free download for you, but it’s around 60 pages I think so it will take me a while!

 

BUTTERICK FASHION NEWS – APRIL 1943

Another free download for you! This issue of Butterick Fashion News contains sixteen pages of beautiful illustrations of the latest sewing patterns available in April 1943. There are some seriously gorgeous styles in this one!

To purchase original catalogs (just like this one!) and sewing patterns, please visit Judy at vintage4me2. Judy is currently having a 40% off sale on all Buy It Now items until March 29th! (Yep, you can use your Sew For Victory coupon on top of that!!)

Please feel free to link to this page, pin this page, or send your friends here. Please do not redistribute, re-post, or sell these downloads (in whole or part) anywhere else. I have made it available FREE for you here on Lucky Lucille!

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If you appreciate these little peeks into Fashion/Sewing history as much as I do, buy me a cuppa’ coffee to say thanks! Only if you want to, of course ;)

$3.00
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To open the eBook you must click the download button from an iPad or iPhone, in Safari browser, with iBooks installed. A new browser window will open and will appear blank for several seconds. It’s a pretty large file so the screen will look as if nothing is happening as the file loads, but soon you will be prompted to open the eBook in iBooks or a similar application, from that browser window.

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The PDF should open on any computer, tablet, and/or browser, but may take a little while to load. Again, the images are large. When the browser window opens, click the icon in the top toolbar (second icon in from the far right) to download and save the PDF.

Happy Reading!
Rochelle

MCCALL 5557 – PART TWO

After the weather put a damper on my first attempt to photograph this skirt, I decided to write about it in two parts. In Part One I shared all about the “guts” of my skirt, that is, the inside details of construction and how I sewed it all up. But for those of you who don’t sew, here are some non-sewy outfit shots!

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It was still freezing outside, but Wil and I had a lot of fun taking photos despite the chill. I shared a little video on Instagram to prove how cold I was haha! Where is Spring?!

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Outfit Details
Beret – The WWII Soldier
Glasses – courtesy of Victory Optical
Sweater Vest – Secondhand (American Eagle brand)
Skirt – Handmade by me
Boots – Timberland
Bag – Moresca

(photos by William Waldon)

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Oh yeah, I changed my hair color! My next WWII reenactment isn’t until June so I figured I can have wildly red hair until then. The color is so fun and it was just the kind of brightness I needed in my life to bring me out of my funk. I’ve been experimenting with finger waving clips and was so close to having really awesome hair for this shoot, but I jumped the gun and took the clips out before my hair was completely dry. Rats. All of my wave brushed out so I opted for the beret instead, which is fine because I really like berets!

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Hey look, someone dropped some Raisinets on the ground!
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…just kidding.

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Getting out in the woods again, taking photos, and wearing my handmade skirt has made me feel so much better. I want to thank everyone who left a comment on my last post about being in a sewing/general funk. It’s so nice to know I’m not alone and you all truly made me feel loved. Thank you from the bottom of my heart <3

Well, this is the last post about my first completed Twelve Pattern Challenge project. Now I can get back to sewing those pants I’ve been talking about!

xo
Rochelle

preparing for pants

Next up on my Twelve Pattern Challenge agenda: Pants. I already have a pants pattern in my T.P.C queue but there are a few things that are making me hold off on it for now. I’ve sewn the Simplicity 3688 trousers a few times before (here, here, and here) and they have great potential, but the work involved to transform them into the pants I’m longing for right now is too much for me to think about fussing with. I really want a pair of pants with a fly front, lots of pockets, and belt loops. I’ve never sewn a fly front before so that’s another reason why I’m feeling the need to add fly front trousers to my challenge.

1930s_1940s_flyfront_trousersphotos via wehadfacesthen and 1942 Sears Catalog

I searched high and low for a vintage pattern to fill this void, but instead found a practically perfect modern pattern to fit the bill. The Vogue 8836 pattern looks nearly identical to the 1930’s trousers shown in the photo above! I’m pleased to report that Jo-Anns will be having a sale on Butterick and Vogue patterns this weekend (no I’m not psychic, I have the app) so I’m going to scoop it up for $4.99 instead of $13.50! Score! I’m sure all the ladies in my WWII reenacting troupe will understand that I had to sneak away from the event to grab a pattern on sale, right? They totally will.

Now that I have my inspiration and a pattern, I need to narrow down a fabric choice. I already have some beautiful rust colored corduroy in my stash, but I might want something a little thinner with more drape for Vogue 8836. I’ve started a Pinterest board for My Ideal Wardrobe so I can start to get a general sense of fabrics, textures, and overall themes of things that inspire me.

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I like chic menswear, tweeds, and timeless color palettes. I also like things that are soft and look like they’ve been broken-in and well loved overtime – You know, Vintage-y things. Practicality also plays a crucial roll here so I’m looking for fabrics that are washable and fairly durable. I don’t want to fuss with matching plaids either. …and I really like the color green lately.

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fabrics: onetwothreefourfivesixseveneightnine

Denver Fabrics doesn’t advertise swatches but you can order any fabric as small as 1/8th of a yard, which is pretty much a swatch. I ordered quite a few swatches of different fabrics, some obvious for pants (polyester blend suiting and such), and some potential wild cards (peach skin?!). Number three is my favorite so far, but we’ll see which one I like best when they get here!

The only thing I plan to change on the Vogue 8836 pattern is to add double welt pockets to the back, which is also a technique I’ve never tried, so I’m taking the online class Designing Details: Pockets with Kenneth D. King to help me through it.

I’d also like to try and squeeze in some shirt sewing in February but we’ll see how involved the pants are first. I’m really excited about these! I’m picturing them now and they look so good in my head haha!

Have you ever sewn pants? Did you have good luck with them?

xo
Rochelle

MCCALL 5557 – PART ONE

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The weather is still brutally cold and windy so I haven’t been able to get more real outfit photos like I want, but I can show you the bones of my skirt in the meantime while I wait out Mother Nature. This is McCall 5557, a vintage skirt pattern from 1944 that I bought from Judy at Vintage4me2. It also happens to be the first completed project in my Twelve Pattern Challenge.

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I used a micro brushed cotton twill from fabric.com in hunter green. My initial impression of the fabric was underwhelming at first. The color is beautiful, the weight is perfect, but the fluffy brushed finish really didn’t show itself until I washed it and took it out of the dryer. Then it felt glorious! SO FLUFFY! This fabric is everything I hoped it would be and more. It’s inexpensive and machine washable but feels so much nicer than anything I’ve ever used from Jo-Ann Fabrics. It still wrinkles like cotton, but it’s the perfect three season weight and looks almost like wool at a casual glance. I love it!

Aside from choosing better quality fabrics in 2014 (off to a good start!), using better seam finishing techniques is also on my to-do list.

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I bound all of my raw seams with 1/2″ single fold bias tape. Rather than use the traditional Hong Kong technique, I went the lazy route and folded the bias tape as I topstitched it. The lazy way works well if you’re very careful and make sure you’re catching both edges of the bias tape in the same line of stitching. I bound all four of the gore seams with one strip of bias tape after stitching them, except on the side seams. I bound the edge of each side piece first, so I could sew them together and press the seam open for the zipper insertion.

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I always refer back to Sunni’s free zipper class on Craftsy when installing zippers. She does an excellent job of explaining the process and I get a perfect lapped zipper every time! I only take one small extra step after Sunni’s instructions, and that’s to measure out a stitch guide on the outside of the fabric to make sure I’m sewing a straight line.

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I used a nine inch zipper in my first skirt attempt, but felt it looked much too long for a 1940s style. This time I used a nine inch zipper, but sewed it at seven inches so it appeared shorter. I can still get the skirt on easily and I think it looks much better at the shorter length.

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My next challenge was deciding how much I wanted to hem the skirt. The pattern suggests a two inch hem, but I wanted to be sure the overall length was spot on for the WWII reenactment at the end of the month. Skirt/dress length makes a huge difference in how period appropriate your clothing looks. So, to be as authentic as possible, I consulted my original 1942 Sears and Roebuck catalog and went skirt shopping!

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After browsing around a bit I found a page that listed the finished skirt length for each size. That settled it, 25 inches below the waist band would be my finished length! And look, I’m not even far off from “wool worsted flannel in laurel green”. Just like I planned it or something ;)

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My pattern pieces didn’t line up at all at the bottom. I noticed this as I was tracing the original pattern but decided not to square it up since the hem would ultimately conceal any weird length issues. I measured 25 inches down from the bottom of the waist band and made a chalk mark, then measured 2.5 inches down from that for my bias tape allowance and hem fold line. I cut off any extra.

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I was going to use lace hem tape originally, but liked the look of the 7/8″ wide bias tape better. Plus, I figured it would be more durable in the long run with the weight of the fabric and all. I tried to gather the bottom of the skirt slightly but with the bias bound seams it was too thick to pull the basting stitches. I sewed the bias tape to the hem and steamed the crap out of it with my iron to get it to shrink up a bit. It ended up fitting quite nicely inside the skirt after that! I stitched the top of the bias tape to itself to prevent it from stretching, and then attached it to the actual skirt by hand with a blind hem stitch. I made little tick marks (on the inside of my skirt) with chalk, every half inch to ensure my blind stitches were straight and even. It looks pretty darn good from the outside if I do say so myself.

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I sat down in bed with a needle, some thread, one cat, and one dog, and by the time I got to episode three of Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries on Netflix I was finished with the hemming! I think I’ve watched Season One about 17 times now. (…any one else obsessed? Season Two needs to reach the US quick before I go crazy! Ah!)

As far as the waist band issues I was having earlier, I figured out the problem thanks to a reader comment. I had assumed the top of the skirt would measure the exact same size at the waist band so I didn’t think to measure that part of the pattern as I was double checking everything initially. I measured the waistband and the hip but not the actual waist. I do have a major tendency to stretch things out as I iron, but the bigger issue was the waist measured an inch bigger than the waistband right off the bat! No wonder it wasn’t matching up! The pattern probably assumes that you know to ease the waist of the skirt into the band, but I didn’t know that. Now I do.

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One thing I did with this pattern, that I’ve never done before, is keep a notebook and write about all the changes I made or odd things I encountered while sewing. This is definitely something I’m going to keep doing in the future because it makes everything so much easier to refer back to. The purpose of my Twelve Pattern Challenge is to pick patterns that I can master and then remake again and again to build a better wardrobe. So far I’m off to a fantastic start! I’m really pleased with my fabric choice because it does not look or feel cheap. I put away my pinking shears, left my serger in the closet, and took the time to use seam binding to finish all the raw edges. I made not one, but two muslins to perfect the fit of this pattern. I didn’t skimp or cut corners on anything, I actually used interfacing in the waistband (I couldn’t be bothered with it before)! I did proper measuring when deciding how much to raise the hem, instead of just doing what the pattern suggested. I took my time and I made something I’m really proud of. I haven’t been really proud of my sewing in quite some time now but that’s quickly changing.

The only thing I would change on this skirt is my buttonhole. I cut a little too close to the stitching in one spot so now the thread is unraveling a bit with wear, but I bought some Fray-Check to fix it! Soooo I guess I would change nothing!

Now I just need to wait for some less brutal weather so I can get some proper outfit photos and then move on to the next pattern on my list!

Do you have a goal to “up your game” with sewing this year? What steps are you taking to do that?

xo
Rochelle

 

 

 

 

my twelve pattern challenge

I had a big enlightening moment at the end of 2013 that sparked an idea that would overhaul my entire approach to sewing. Last year I was constantly choosing patterns to sew that never got worn, I wasn’t making an effort to alter patterns that didn’t fit, I wasn’t choosing quality fabrics, and I wasn’t properly finishing the insides of my garments (all according to my own standards, of course). After evaluating my ideal wardrobe, and understanding why I wasn’t wearing what I was making, I came up with the Twelve Pattern Challenge. The purpose of this challenge is to create a handmade vintage wardrobe that I will want to wear everyday, that I can wash with ease and I’m proud of inside and out. Quality, not quantity, is the goal.

Here are the basic rules:

  1. I will pick a total of 12 patterns to sew from in 2014. This is my bank of wardrobe staples.
  2. I will select patterns from my stash first, but also give myself an allowance of new patterns to purchase.
  3. I can sew any combination of patterns, in any order, but…
  4. I will sew at least one pattern every month, and all 12 by the end of the year.
  5. I will make a muslin for each pattern and perfect the fit to the best of my ability.
  6. I will concentrate on proper, durable seam finishing techniques in order to really finish each garment.
  7. Once the fit is perfected, and the initial pattern has been made according to the original instructions, I can re-make and alter the pattern as many times as I’d like.
  8. I will attempt to use up my stash fabric, but only if the fabric is appropriate for the garment and of good quality.

*If I’m working through a pattern and I discover it’s just not working out (because of construction or fit problems) to the point where it’s no longer fun to work on, I will move on to a new pattern or replace the pattern that’s not working with a new one.

My Pattern Bank will consist of: 2 pant styles, 2 shirt styles, 2 wrap dresses, 2 skirt styles, 1 lounge wear set, 1 handbag, 1 jacket, and 1 blazer.

My Pattern Bank so far:
Pattern Number One: DuBarry 2434B Jacket – circa 1939
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Pattern Number Two: Simplicity 4498 Wrap Dress – circa 1943
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Pattern Number Three: Advance 3297 Wrap Dress – circa 1943
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Pattern Number Four: Simplicity 4139 Shirt – circa 1942
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Pattern Number Five: Mail Order Pattern 4821 Dirndl Skirt – circa 1954(?)
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Pattern Number Six and Seven: Simplicity Reproduction 3688 Blazer and Pants – originally circa 1944-45(?)
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My Pattern Allowance:
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I just purchased a six-gore suit skirt pattern (circa 1944) from Vintage4me2, so there’s one more to add to my bank! Now I only have four patterns left in my allowance to find. I’m still looking for a 1930s or 40s loungewear/pajama set that I can wear inside, but will also be acceptable to wear outside (if made in the right material) when walking Lucille in the summer time, or running errands. I need a second pants pattern and shirt pattern in slightly different styles than the ones already in my bank. The one handmade item I DO use every single day is my little tote bag, so I’d like to make another one that’s more durable and more purse like.

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I bought an entire bolt of muslin fabric (50% off at Jo-Ann’s!), and I have pattern tracing paper, so there’s no excuse for me not to test fit each one of my garments. I’m also considering the Craftsy class Sew The Perfect Fit in order to help me with any alterations I might need.

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I’m going to try to sew from my stash first and foremost, but my stash only has shirt/dress weight cottons in it at this point. I’ll be ordering a lot of fabric online this year since there are NO fabric stores near me (besides Jo-Ann’s and I’m not happy with their bottom weight fabrics recently). I’ll be making an effort to plan new garments with an entire outfit in mind, and I will order swatches before buying unfamiliar fabrics.

Phew! Okay this post is getting slightly long winded but I really needed to spell this all out for myself so I have a solid reference to move forward with. Having a set plan is a big factor in sewing success so I’m just trying to follow my own advice for once ;).

This is the official kickoff to my Twelve Pattern Challenge!
What should I sew first?!

xo
Rochelle

organic cotton archer – 1940s style

This project barely took anytime to come to fruition in my brain. I quite literally live in button up shirts (even sleep in them) so it was absolutely essential that I make one for myself sooner than later. Thus, Archer Appreciation Month was born!

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I’ve sewn with the luscious cotton sateen from Organic Cotton Plus twice now (here and here) so for this sponsored* post I knew I’d ask for a winter weight fabric. The natural flannel was the natural choice. This flannel comes in its “raw” state so I custom dyed it with RIT to give it some personality. You can read about my dye process in this post, here. Organic Cotton Plus has recently added a selection of Procion MX Dyes to their site, which I didn’t see before, so I might have to give those a try next time instead.

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This was my first experience dying fabric and I have to say I’m very pleased with the results. The flannel dyed evenly and easily, and held up very well after I subjected it to nearly boiling water and then washed it twice in cold water after dying. The fabric pilled slightly, but that’s to be expected after washing it as ruthlessly as I did. When I pressed it under the iron the pilling mostly disappeared, but the fabric did stretch. I haven’t sewn with flannel in a very long time so I had forgotten it would do that. No trouble though, my Archer shirt still went together with ease and everything lined up well in spite of the stretching.

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I ended up sewing the size 4, but now that I see the sleeve length and shoulder seam, I’m guessing I could have sewn the smallest size for a better fit. I don’t mid though, it’s a seriously comfortable shirt! The fit might not be spot on, but I’m definitely happy with how my 1940s collar modification turned out even though it was a bit of a struggle. I didn’t really have a set plan of action for the collar so I found myself reaching for the seam ripper quite a few times as I pieced it together. At one point I had to rip out part of the lapel after I had already hacked off the seam allowance. The fact that the fabric didn’t unravel on me has got to be a testament to its weave. I honestly can’t believe it held up well enough to rip out a 1/8th inch seam allowance, sew it back together, and still turn the lapel point without poking through!

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The buttons on my Archer are organic coconut shell and I love the texture they add to the shirt. I suspect they’re hand cut because the thickness between each button varies slightly, but not enough to notice unless you’re holding them up next to each other.

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We had beautiful sunny weather in Western NY today but it was still awfully chilly with the wind, so I’m afraid my sweater didn’t stay off for long. The flannel certainly helped keep me a bit warmer though.

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While the fabric was wonderful to sew with, I think next time I’ll save my eyeballs (and my sanity) and pick a fabric that has a more obvious right and wrong side. I may or may not have sewn a sleeve on inside-out twice in a row. Whoops! I really can’t blame the fabric for that though, that “whoops!” was entirely my fault.

As far as the Archer pattern itself, I am blown away by Jen’s drafting ability. You can tell she has professional training by the fact that the original archer collar has a separate top and bottom piece. Many modern patterns don’t bother with that detail and seem to not care if your collar rolls to right side or not. This is something I never knew until I took a pattern drafting class myself. Those little things really impress me and I salute Jen for her attention to detail, and loyalty to traditional pattern making.

That’s a wrap on my contribution to Archer Appreciation Month, and 2013 sewing! If you’re participating, don’t forget to add your photos to the Flickr pool before January 1st.

xo
Rochelle

* – fabric and buttons provided by Organic Cotton Plus in exchange for a review. All views are honest and my own.

simplicity preview – january 1947

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Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! Here’s a little present for you – Simplicity’s mini sewing pattern catalog from 1947, full of beautiful New Look styles to inspire you in the New Year!

Please feel free to link to this page, pin this page, or send your friends here. Please do not redistribute, re-post, or sell these downloads (in whole or part) anywhere else. I have made it available FREE for you here on Lucky Lucille!

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If you appreciate these little peeks into Fashion/Sewing history as much as I do, buy me a cuppa’ coffee to say thanks! Only if you want to, of course ;)


$3.00

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To open the eBook you must click the download button from an iPad or iPhone, in Safari browser, with iBooks installed. A new browser window will open and will appear blank for several seconds. It’s a pretty large file so the screen will look as if nothing is happening as the file loads, but soon you will be prompted to open the eBook in iBooks or a similar application, from that browser window.

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The PDF should open on any computer, tablet, and/or browser, but may take a little while to load. Again, the images are large. When the browser window opens, click the icon in the top toolbar (second icon in from the far right) to download and save the PDF.

To purchase original catalogs (just like this one!) and sewing patterns, please visit Judy at vintage4me2.

Happy Reading,
Rochelle