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a girly, but not too girly, vintage floral button-up

Author:
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Once again you all blew me away with your amazing comments to my last post on wardrobe epiphanies. I’m slowly trying to respond to everyone, but just know that I read each and every comment and appreciate them all the same. Like me, it seems a lot of you vintage lovin’ gals have trouble finding clothes that fit in with your lifestyle and your love for bygone eras. Of course, you can still love vintage and not wear those types of clothes, but I feel good about myself when I do and it makes me proud of how I look. I feel like a big piece of me is missing if I wear clothes out of the house that don’t look at least a little vintage (kinda like when I forget my glasses. I feel all wrong).

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I also feel like a big piece of me is missing when I’m not wearing at least one thing that I’ve made myself. Wearing me-made things just plain makes me feel happy! So I’ve been doing a bit of soul searching lately and taking a good hard look at what I constantly wear, vs what I was constantly sewing but not wearing as much. There was a gigantic gap in the middle with the words BUTTON-UP SHIRT written all over it. Once that part of the equation was identified, the rest just fell into place for this project.

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This is the Archer Button-Up by Jen at Grainline Studio. There’s not much I can say except I love this pattern! It has a ton of pattern pieces compared to the shirts I’ve sewn so far this summer, but it’s seriously my perfect shirt. It has minimal shaping and a classic menswear look but with a lot of options to make a more feminine version if you want to (I want to make the ruffle back version soon!). I had made another version of Archer back in December for a fun sewing challenge, but I got the fit wrong and fudged one of the sleeves so I don’t really wear it. This one is definitely going to get worn!

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To add a vintage twist to my Archer I used a 1930s ditsy floral reproduction mixed with some pink baby gingham. Both are a quilting cotton weight, not technically a shirting, but work very well for this pattern in my opinion. Quilting cottons will always be my favorite fabrics so any time I can sew with them I’m a happy camper! I really love the way this shirt turned out because it’s the perfect pairing of feminine styling and masculine comfort.

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I realized I had been sewing a lot of quick, instant gratification garments lately (like kimono sleeve pullover blouses and things like that) but I live in button-up shirts at home. Live in them! As I was piecing this shirt together though I remembered why I haven’t tried to sew one since December …so. many. buttons. Haha! THIRTEEN button holes I had to sew, with thirteen buttons. That’s a lot for someone with a less than virtuous attention span. The lesson with that is, though: it was so worth it! Sometimes you need to craft your wardrobe – not whip it up.

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Another clothing/sewing realization I had is I don’t like seasonal wardrobes. It annoys me to try and find a place for my winter stuff during the summer, and my summer stuff in the winter. I’d much rather just have clothes that work for all seasons, plus or minus a few layers. Today it was really overcast and windy so the long sleeves were perfect! On hotter days I’ll just roll up the sleeves and skip having to put sun screen on most of my upper half. That works for me.

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Wil and I took a long lunch break to blow off a little steam since our Lucky Lucille Lou went in for surgery this morning and we’re trying not to stress! She has a small lump near her chest that we discovered recently and decided to have it removed and sent out for testing. Her blood work came back clear so we’re hoping it’s just a fatty tumor and nothing serious. We won’t know for a week or two what the results are and I’m trying not to hold my breath until then. Fun, upbeat music is my favorite (especially for days like today) so it was all Skiffle all day long. Skiffle is a really fun genre of folk/blues/rockabilly/??? if you’re into that kind of stuff. There’s a really interesting history involving the roots of Skiffle that I could easily keep rambling about but I’ll send you to Wikipedia instead ;) ;)

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After a milkshake and some photos in the park we were feeling a lot better. It’s funny how well a milkshake can lift the spirits ;)

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Outfit Details:
Shirt – Archer pattern made by me
Jeans – American Eagle (from nearly 5 years ago)
Jacket – Sport-Tek Ladies Letterman Fleece
Glasses – Honey frames c/o Victory Optical
Knitting Bag – vintage from a flea market
Shoes – Old Navy
Socks – stolen from Wil

photos by William Waldon

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This outfit makes me feel more like “me” than I have in a long time (a sewing room victory!!) and I’m eager to sew much more of it. There are a few different styles of pants I want to try before I can pick a favorite, but I think button-ups are going straight to the top of my pattern list. I also want to try sewing a Newcastle Cardigan by Thread Theory to make a jacket similar to the one I’m wearing today.

It feels good to feel like yourself and be proud of what you’re wearing. Especially when you make it yourself :)

xo
Rochelle

p.s. Lucille is out of surgery now and is recovering well so far but still needs to stay over night for observation (we won’t have her test results back for several days thought). I should have her back first thing tomorrow morning! Thank you all SO MUCH for your kind words on instagram and facebook. You’ve seriously made my day so much better and I’m forever thankful. I know Lucille is too ;)

a haircut, a cat, and a pair of pants.

Author:
luckylucille_marlenetrousers10

I finished these pants last week but haven’t had a chance to share them until today. I love all this Spring rain we’ve been getting but Wil and I always seem to miss the dry window of opportunity for outdoor photos. Luckily we caught a break long enough to get a few shots in the yard. My little friend here decided to join us.

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These are my new favorite pants! They’re made from the Marlene pattern by Burda Style and even though the directions are less than helpful, I’m happy to report I made my way through alright after the initial muslin. I can’t say anything bad about Burda because I love their selection of downloadable patterns (all for around five dollars), but I am noticing a serious lack of sewing instruction and there are definitely no diagrams. I’d be lying if I said I was the type of girl who always follows instructions, because I rarely do (it comes back to bite me usually, I might add) but I do like to glance at illustrations as I work through things. Luckily I’ve sewn enough simple pairs of pants to get through the construction without help but I hadn’t done a lined pocket quite like this before so they totally threw me off the first time around! The pockets on my muslin definitely empty out into the pant leg and are completely useless haha!

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Not to worry though, I clearly figured it out. Honestly the construction isn’t that difficult at all, I just tend to confuse myself with the wording when reading directions. …it’s definitely a “problem” I deal with. If there is such a thing as directional ADD, I’m sure I have it. Whoops I’m losing my train of thought here… oh right the pants. Awesomest pants ever!

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I could have done a bit better job on the waistband but aside from that, the Marlene Trousers are everything I’ve ever wanted in a pants pattern. I thought I wanted a pair of trousers with a fly front, but turns out I don’t have man parts that necessitate a zipper in the front, and I’ve always preferred lapped zippers anyways, so there’s no Master Of Sewing telling me I HAVE to learn how to sew pants with flys right now. So I’m not going to. However, the common problem with lapped side zippers and pants is: no side pockets. I don’t mind not having back pockets, but I need some pockets in the front. So once again, these pants are everything I want/need in a pair of pants!

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The legs are also gigantic! Again, a want/need for me. Lately I’m borderline obsessed with the wide-leg pant styles of the 1920s and 30s. They’re just so comfortable! Oh and the fabric I picked for these pants is fantastic. It’s a lighter weight denim by Robert Kaufman that I bought from Hawthorne Threads. I think it’s the perfect thickness for summer! The thread pattern makes the fabric look almost shiny from a distance. It’s pretty neat stuff. Wonderful to sew with!

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Outfit Details:
Pants – Marlene Trousers via Burda Style
Shirt – Antique (another gift from my aunt)
Art Deco Bobby Pins – ModCloth
Shoes – Target
Glasses – c/o Victory Optical
Hair Color – Manic Panic Vampire Red

photos by William Waldon

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To match my 1920s/30s obsession I went and got another hair cut (just in time for Loran’s 1920s sew-along!). I know I prefer my real hair to be short (any photo of me with long hair is actually a wig!) but it’s taken me several cuts to find the perfect short style for me. I think this might be it! It seems to be working really well with my natural wave.

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This here is my friend, Karl Cat. He wanted to see why we were standing around in the side yard, looking like we were free to pet him. He’s really handsome so I obliged his request.

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…he doesn’t like when Wil tries to pet him though haha!

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“Dude. Hands off the brow.”

I think this is the project that officially got me excited for summer sewing! I also bought two shirt patterns from Burda that I can wait to make, and I’m even more excited to pick fabric for them, especially since Cotton + Steel just went live at Quilt Market! Ahh! Must have ALL THE C+S FABRIC!

What are you working on lately?

xo
Rochelle

 

dubarry sewing – best colors for your type

Author:
bestcolorsforyourface1945F

dubarrypatternsbooklet

Today I have some images from a great sewing booklet by DuBarry Patterns, published in 1945. It includes tons of tips and techniques for sewing success as well as a really great color photo chart suggesting which colors suit you best! I’ve included both the full spread, and a much larger scan so you can actually read the text. I thought it would be a fun reference for Sew For Victory! I have not digitally enhanced the colors in order to keep them as true to the original printing as possible.

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I’m actually a little disappointed by the suggested colors for auburn hair and brown eyes haha! They seem a bit dull in comparison to some of the other palettes. Though I am lucky to have the “most perfect type of face” lol.

What does your hair and eye color suggest for you?
If you’re participating in Sew For Victory, did you pick one of the colors from your palette? I did!

xo
Rochelle

p.s. I’d really love to scan this entire booklet and make it available as a free download for you, but it’s around 60 pages I think so it will take me a while!

 

BUTTERICK FASHION NEWS – APRIL 1943

Author:
Free Download - 16 page PDF and eBook - Butterick Fashion News April 1943

Another free download for you! This issue of Butterick Fashion News contains sixteen pages of beautiful illustrations of the latest sewing patterns available in April 1943. There are some seriously gorgeous styles in this one!

To purchase original catalogs (just like this one!) and sewing patterns, please visit Judy at vintage4me2. Judy is currently having a 40% off sale on all Buy It Now items until March 29th! (Yep, you can use your Sew For Victory coupon on top of that!!)

Please feel free to link to this page, pin this page, or send your friends here. Please do not redistribute, re-post, or sell these downloads (in whole or part) anywhere else. I have made it available FREE for you here on Lucky Lucille!

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If you appreciate these little peeks into Fashion/Sewing history as much as I do, buy me a cuppa’ coffee to say thanks! Only if you want to, of course ;)

$3.00
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To open the eBook you must click the download button from an iPad or iPhone, in Safari browser, with iBooks installed. A new browser window will open and will appear blank for several seconds. It’s a pretty large file so the screen will look as if nothing is happening as the file loads, but soon you will be prompted to open the eBook in iBooks or a similar application, from that browser window.

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The PDF should open on any computer, tablet, and/or browser, but may take a little while to load. Again, the images are large. When the browser window opens, click the icon in the top toolbar (second icon in from the far right) to download and save the PDF.

Happy Reading!
Rochelle

MCCALL 5557 – PART TWO

Author:
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After the weather put a damper on my first attempt to photograph this skirt, I decided to write about it in two parts. In Part One I shared all about the “guts” of my skirt, that is, the inside details of construction and how I sewed it all up. But for those of you who don’t sew, here are some non-sewy outfit shots!

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It was still freezing outside, but Wil and I had a lot of fun taking photos despite the chill. I shared a little video on Instagram to prove how cold I was haha! Where is Spring?!

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Outfit Details
Beret – The WWII Soldier
Glasses – courtesy of Victory Optical
Sweater Vest – Secondhand (American Eagle brand)
Skirt – Handmade by me
Boots – Timberland
Bag – Moresca

(photos by William Waldon)

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Oh yeah, I changed my hair color! My next WWII reenactment isn’t until June so I figured I can have wildly red hair until then. The color is so fun and it was just the kind of brightness I needed in my life to bring me out of my funk. I’ve been experimenting with finger waving clips and was so close to having really awesome hair for this shoot, but I jumped the gun and took the clips out before my hair was completely dry. Rats. All of my wave brushed out so I opted for the beret instead, which is fine because I really like berets!

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Hey look, someone dropped some Raisinets on the ground!
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…just kidding.

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Getting out in the woods again, taking photos, and wearing my handmade skirt has made me feel so much better. I want to thank everyone who left a comment on my last post about being in a sewing/general funk. It’s so nice to know I’m not alone and you all truly made me feel loved. Thank you from the bottom of my heart <3

Well, this is the last post about my first completed Twelve Pattern Challenge project. Now I can get back to sewing those pants I’ve been talking about!

xo
Rochelle

A Blog By Rochelle New

I'm a fabric wizard and wielder of needles with a passion for quilt industry cottons, bygone eras, and natural things.

i.e. I mostly do nerd things like pretend I'm a wizard, collect moldy books, and spend too much time picking up acorns in the woods, all with my spirit animal (a dog named Lucille), my personal photographer (a man named William), and a few literal fat cats in tow.

Making magic and messes in the backwoods of New York.

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