I’ve been on a Miss Fisher kick again and recently watched Season 1 Episode 12 (where Jane dresses as Little Red Riding Hood and Arthur talks of the woodcutter), hence the name of the blog post. I really should have called it How To Dress Inappropriately For The Weather though since it was about 30 degrees out, with scattered snow showers, when William and I took these photos. FREE-ZING!
The only warm coats I own are for snowboarding, and they don’t really go well with sewing projects (Shhhhhh, it’s a good excuse!), so when I got back home I immediately bought a new coat that will actually match non-winter-sports clothing. Fine, you caught me. It was a horrible excuse, I just wanted a new coat mwahahah! It’s my birthday this month, okay?
I had to make a few changes to the pattern because nothing ever fits me at the armpit. After watching Joi’s Fast-Track to Fitting series I learned I have forward sloping shoulders and a meaty stick-y out-y tendon/muscle (I should remember the technical term from college anatomy but I don’t) right at the point where the shoulder, chest, and underarm meet. As a result of this, everything seems to cut into my skin and even cut off circulation under the arm.
Many fitting books tell you that arm holes are always cut too low, causing all sorts of fitting problems in bodices and sleeves. I’m sure they’re right, but in my case I don’t care about being technically correct as much as I just want to be comfortable. So I broke all the rules and lowered the armscye. #rebelsewing
I cut a size XS everywhere except the shoulder, which I lengthened to the size Medium line. This dropped the armscye down lower to accommodate my scrawny cavernous armpits, which I apparently have. I also scooped out a deeper curve from the front armscye, but straightened the shape of the upper back part to account for my forward sloping shoulders.
This fixed most of my problems but I still needed to add a tad more room in the bust. At first I attempted a FBA but quickly realized that was going to change the shape of my newly fixed armhole, as well as the shape of the side seams, which I didn’t want. So the simplest solution was to add 1/4″ to the center front (which is cut on the fold) and then ta-da! 1/2″ extra in the finished bust measurement. Perfect.
Yeah I could have added a dart for a better fit in the bust with no loss of shaping and blah blah blah but I picked this pattern specifically so I didn’t have to fuss with all that. No darts. No closures. No real fitting. No problems. (I already have enough of those in my wrists)
The last adjustment I made was to shorten the length so I could fit both pieces on just two yards of fabric. Whenever I can’t decide on how much fabric to buy I just get two yards, so probably 90% of my stash is two yard cuts. Which is slightly problematic since you can barely sew any garments with just two yards. Silly me!
Well, that’s about all I have to report on the Tank Dress by Sew Caroline! It’s a simple pattern (I even skipped the elastic in the back this time) but I’m really happy with the fit and the the shape of the neckline so it was worth the cost of the pattern to now have a basic block. I plan to make more variations of this dress in the future, for sure. It feels so good to get back to sewing again! It does not, however, feel so good to get poked in the backside with a mass of brambles…
I have not been back to knitting though (which is nearly killing me since I want to knit ALL THE HATS) so I had to resort to buying a new one from Target. GASP! I know! It’s cute though, right?
Who let me go outside without a coat?! Where’s my mother to tell me not to be such an idiot? Don’t worry mom, I bought a new coat and it’s en route as we speak. No mom, I do not have enough coats already, I neeeeedddeeedddd a new one, OKAY?! GAWD!
At least I had enough sense to dress my child for the frigid weather. Lucille had her coat on! Uhg I could smoosh those adorable neck rolls all day long…
I hope the rest of you are sewing things more seasonally appropriate than I am. Ha!